True Shortboarder

After the post on Sunday, I didn’t think this update would come so soon 🙂

The forecast today was average, with almost freezing rain on top . But The Wall , as usual , delivered above expectations.
We’ve had some decent swells coming through the past month and I’ve been working on learning to ride my recent purchase, a 6’8″ shortboard.
Used to pearling often, I had issues committing to the drop, or trying to catch waves too far out. But the shortboard likes to hang on the lip and fall on the backside like it was designed for that. So it was quite an adjustment, and a few frustrating sessions. Today’s waves were not breaking steeply, requiring even later take-offs. I spent about an hour in the water in fruitless attempts. Lucky the rain made for a line-up that left plenty of openings, so at least I could get way from other surfers, which are always an annoying distraction.
Finally, I managed to catch a wave and also to convince myself I won’t pearl if I have even a little forward motion.
But the bottom turn on that wave was not what I liked, essentially just leaning until the board stalled, and in the wrong direction too.
I had to do better!
A few more failed attempts, and finally, I managed to catch another wave. Something came over me and I was able to turn with my body, just like I have been meaning to, and not losing any speed. On my right I could see green water forming into the wave as I was moving down the line. The sight was mesmerizing, so I ended up over the lip and on the backside (not that there was anywhere else to go at that moment).
But for the first time since I started my quest to become a shortboarder, I felt like a surfer again 🙂

A little about my level, I went surfing in Florida in college a few times, on a friend’s shortboard, failed to catch a single wave. Then I tried out another friend’s longboard and caught my first white water ride.

After an 8 year hiatus, having moved to New England, I saw people surfing at The Wall during a run. That was 3 and a half years ago, when I got back into surfing, with the eventual goal of bring able to do an air at some point in time 🙂 I’m 35 now and hope I still have enough stamina and flexibility left in me to achieve that goal .


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